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Copyright 2006 |
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Keswick - Borrowdale - Buttermere - Cockermouth |
A tour of the Western Lakes start at
Keswick the Tourism Centre of Northern Lakeland, accessed via to A66 Highway
from Penrith and located at the head of one of the most picturesque Lakes
Derwent Water.
Starting at Portinscale a few miles
west of Keswick on the A66 we approach the Newlands Valley and take the hillside
road south to Grange down the west side of Derwent Water, clinging to the side
of Catbells which may have been view over the lake from the Boat landing at
Keswick.
| Catbells was the first fell climbed
by many visitors to the Lakes, the views across the Derwent Water from the road
can only be improved by rising up the Fell side of Catbells. This route is
rather steep and easier access is possible from either the north or south ends
of the lake, there being a boat landing at both ends steamer can pick up
walkers. |
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Grange is a quaint village with
refreshments available the double arch bridge being featured on many calendars
of Cumbria. Continuing south the road enters Borrowdale and follow the river
Derwent to Seatoller passing the Bowder Stone along the way.
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The stone is a huge cubic
lump of volcanic rock standing on an edge, weighing in at over 2,000 tonnes
is a short walk from a roadside car park.
During the end of the 1700's a rich
eccentric resident of Keswick called King Pocky (Joseph Pocklington) built a
Chapel and erected a Druid's monolith next to the stone, he also cut a
hole in the base through which to shake hands with visitors.
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At the top of Borrowdale is Seathwaite
one of the wettest places in the UK with over 130 inches of rain each year, lead
graphite was mined here Centuries ago and supplied the Pencil Factory in Keswick
which still continues manufacturing with imported graphite.
From Seatoller the road rises steeply up Honister Pass
from where captivating views back into Borrowdale are available, at the top
Youth Hostel and a car park alongside the Honister Slate Mine who offer
interesting guided tours into the mine.
This location is ideal for the novice walker to access the
high fell with minimal pain, both Haystacks and Great Gable are accessible from
this location. The view forward don into Buttermere is worth a moment before
starting the decent, there being many locations to stop and picnic while
absorbing the scenery.
Buttermere village is a busy place on a sunny day, located
between Buttermere Lake and Crummock Water both of which have a foot path all
around. Buttermere being the shorter, Crummock Water has Scale Force on the far
side a high water spout which is spectacular after rain.
At this point the tour can be shortened by turning right
and rising steeply over Newlands Pass and down the valley back to Portinscale,
an attractive drive with views at the top. Otherwise we continue north along the
side of Crummock Water to the bottom of Lorton Vale, where we double back on the
road along side Loweswater to Lamplugh and south to Croasdale.
Ennerdale water is the most westerly
and quietest lake in Cumbria due to being only accessible on foot, 2.5 miles
long it is overlooked by 'Pillar' which is almost 3,00o feet high and a
challenge to rock climbers. At Ennerdale Bridge we turn north again through
Kirkland, Ullock to Dean a moorland village where the 13th Century Church is
decorated with gargoyles.
Further north through Greysouthen we
join the A66 Keswick road and turn east to Cockermouth where
Irton House Farm offers Self
Catering Accommodation on a Working Sheep Farm nearby at Isel. Those wanting the
best of both worlds can stay on Crookhurst Farm
on the coast at Allonby near Maryport with panoramic views across the Solway
Firth to the Scottish Coast of Galloway.
Wordsworth shares Cockermouth as his
home with
Fletcher Christian
who sailed on HMS Bounty and lead the famous mutiny in the
South Pacific, Wordsworth House located on the Main Street
where Home Made Tea and Cakes are available in the Kitchen.
The town is a busy agricultural centre especially
on Market days and is the home of Jennings Brewery around which there are
tours daily.
The Lakeland Sheep & Wool Centre gives a feel of
life as a sheep farmer on the fells year round, with live demonstrations
twice daily.
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Leaving Cockermouth down the Vale of Lorton to Low
Lorton where the Whinfell Campsite
offers quiet well serviced pitches for all. The Loweswater turn off at
Crummock Water is only a few miles south down the valley should you wish to
alter your return route back over Honister Pass.
Our route rises through High Lorton over
Whinlatter Pass and Forest where the New Visitors Centre is now open with a
direct Web Cam on the Osprey Nest
during the summer months.
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We drop down through the trees of
Whinlatter stopping to take in the view of Bassenthwaite Lake from
the vantage point by the road, the lake has a strange history
in horse racing. John Pocklington from Keswick created the race where the
entrants in the race were attached to a floating pontoon and towed to the centre
of the lake, the horses were released and the winner was the first horse to
reach the shore.
Then on to Braithwaite near Thornthwaite,
where the Thwaite Howe
Country House Hotel offers Quality Accommodation with breathtaking views of
Skiddaw across the Derwent Valley.
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We then join the A66 Highway from Cockermouth for the few
miles past Portinscale back to Keswick in time to Dine and join others at the
Theatre by the Lake in the evening.
Photos and Maps are to follow
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